Как играть в маджонг yakuza
Mahjong
Yakuza 0 — Guide and Walkthrough
Guide and Walkthrough by CyricZ
Version: 1.4 | Updated: 02/22/2021
FAQ of the Month Winner: March 2017
Table of Contents
Minigames
Mahjong
Found: Orchid Palace Mahjong in Kamurocho, Mahjong Jambalaya in Sotenbori
PlayStation | Xbox | Control |
---|---|---|
Move cursor | ||
Confirm selection | ||
Cancel selection | ||
Toggle a Command (Riichi, Pon, Ron, etc.) | ||
View Tutorial | ||
Hold to look at discarded tiles | ||
View Controls | ||
Exit Minigame |
Mahjong, as you’ll be playing it in this game, is «riichi mahjong», similar to the card came of rummy, played with four players using mahjong tiles. Given how in this game, as opposed to Yakuza 5, you won’t be cheating your way out of this one, I’ve decided to expand strategies and give everyone some tips on how to get through this game.
After several years of doing this, I’ve found a lot of people learn by watching, so please enjoy this video of me playing a couple of rounds of mahjong in Yakuza 6.. Enjoy my repeated failures. Note that this video is for Yakuza 6 specifically, but it does work for Yakuza 0 pretty much the same, only this game doesn’t have markers on the tiles for Character tiles or Wind tiles, so you’ll have to learn them (see below).
Go to Orchid Palace or Jambalaya and speak to any of the gentlemen at the tables. The easy guys will let you buy in at 25,000 yen. The medium guys will ask for 250,000. The difficult guys will ask for 2,500,000. Choose whichever you like because honestly the game has so much luck that the AI can’t really account for strategy that much.
From there on, you’ll be able to change some rules as you like. You can play a Half Game (minimum eight rounds) or a Quarter Game (minimum four rounds). With the «Kuitan» rule active, you can go out on a hand of simples. With the «Red Dora» rule turned on, you can use special red tiles to add extra points to scores. Lastly, the 2-han minimum rule requires that winning hands be worth at least 2-han. I suggest going Quarter Game to keep things from dragging, turning the Kuitan and Red Dora rules on, and not bothering with the 2-han minimum.
Mahjong is played with 136 tiles. There are four of each tile, and the tiles are further separated into «suited» and «honors».
Suited tiles are tiles that are numbered one through nine, and are members of one of three suits: bamboo (green and red rectangles), characters (black symbol over red), and dots (circles). Dots and bamboo are pretty easy to determine. The only weird thing is that the «one of bamboo» is a peacock, so keep that in mind.
As for the characters (with the black symbol over the red), they’re Japanese numerical kanji, so you’re just going to have to learn them. One through three are easy because they are that number of horizontal lines. Four is a box with vertical lines inside. Five is five lines, three horizontal and two vertical. Six is a star-shaped symbol (I use «six-pointed star» as a mnemonic even though it doesn’t have six points). Seven is an «L» with a line through it. I tend to think of it as an «inverted seven» with a line through it. Eight is the two diagonal lines making a tent (the mnemonic for that is two hands, with four fingers each, held diagonally in such a shape), and nine is the cross where the right end curls downward.
Fortunately, the game will always organize your tiles in your hand, so if you get a vague idea of how they go and forget, just look at the sequence of tiles in your hand and it’ll help you pick it back up.
Honors are considered higher-ranking. There are seven types of them: four winds and three dragons.
The winds are the characters for East, South, West, and North (in the order of the picture above) written in black. They’re complicated and a little tough to remember, but the good news is that near each player’s name is their current wind, which has the Roman letter below it, so that’s an easy thing to refer to.
The dragons are green, red, and white. The green dragon is a character that’s all green. The red dragon is a character that’s a red box with a vertical line through it. The white dragon is a blank white tile.
Each player is dealt thirteen tiles. The rest of the tiles are put into the walls around the playing area, with fourteen put into a «dead wall» that is not drawn from normally. Play starts with the first person to draw from the wall, place the tile in their hand, then discard another, always keeping thirteen tiles in their hand. Play will continue in this manner, interrupted only by people stealing tiles (see «Pon, Chi, and Kan» below), someone going out, or the tiles from the draw wall being exhausted, resulting in a draw.
The main focus of putting together your hand is to make four melds and a pair. Melds consist of three tiles that are either the exact same tile, a «triplet», or three tiles of the same suit in sequence, or a «run». With those melds and a pair of the exact same tile, you’ll be able to go out and make points. That’s the very simplest way of putting it.
Note that with a run that having four or five in a sequence doesn’t allow you to go out on their own. That said, having multiple sequences does open up some options. For example, having a 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 of the same suit isn’t enough on their own, but you have the option of two full melds if you get a 2 or an 8 (234 and 567 or 345 and 678) or even a 5 (345 and 567). A lot of higher-level gameplay is giving yourself options for multiple ways to get a meld and knowing what’s better to discard. For instance, consider two fours and a three of the same suit. No good on their own, but if you get a two, a four, or a five of the same suit, you’ve got a meld and can discard the remaining one. Even if you get a three, this opens up even more options, as two runs that are exactly the same are worth more points when going out.
Dora is a small factor but worth noting. See that one face-up tile on the dead wall? That’s the dora indicator tile. If you have the next tile in the sequence in your hand when you go out, it’s «dora» and worth extra, and if you have multiples of that same tile, it’s worth even more. Now, «next tile in the sequence» is different depending on what the indicator is. For the most part, it’s one number up if you have a suited tile, and if the indicator is a nine, the dora is a one of that same suit. In the case of winds, the dora is the next wind in a clockwise direction, so if the indicator is West then the dora is North. In the case of dragons, the sequence is «green-red-white»; which is alphabetical order if you need that mnemonic.
Red Dora is an option you can turn on before the game starts. With this on, two of each of the five tiles (six in total) will be colored red. If you get them and can work them into a meld, they’ll be worth extra.
So, if you’ve stumbled through this minigame, you’ll sometimes come upon the option to press X to declare «Pon», «Chi», or «Kan». A good general rule if this is offered is «don’t», but let me explain that in more depth.
This is the concept of stealing tiles from your opponents, specifically, the one directly to your left. When your opponent discards, if the tile he throws out can complete a meld in your hand, you have the option of taking that tile to complete the meld:
Once you do that, those tiles are flipped over, put aside, and cannot be changed for the rest of the hand. It’s still a legitimate meld, but your hand is no longer «fully concealed». Being fully concealed allows you to go out even if you don’t have any special qualities to your hand, but stealing a tile means your options for going out are now more limited. It’s the risk you take for grabbing something you’ve already seen.
Now, should you never steal? There’s a long and interesting answer to that, but it basically boils down to «what are you trying to make»? If you have a particular hand in mind, especially a high-scoring hand, maybe you should steal to finish it, even if it means fewer points. If you’re kinda just going with whatever, then maybe you should hold off even if the opportunity has presented itself. If someone has declared Riichi, meaning they’re one tile away from going out, maybe steal a little bit more to see if you can beat them to it. Just take care when doing so.
Okay, «Kan». When you declare a quad as kan, you end up doing two things. First, you’ll take an extra tile, because you’re now down one tile having used it to make a fourth, but you still need to make four melds. Second, a new dora indicator tile will be flipped on the dead wall. Good news is that you can now make dora with two possible tiles. Bad news is that so can any of your opponents. Declaring kan is a risky move that you may want to reserve only if you’re getting close to the end and want to see if you can tack a few more points on.
There’s also the concept of a «closed kan», which you can do if you actually get dealt the four tiles instead of stealing the last one. If you can make a closed kan, then your hand is still declared «concealed», but you still get the benefits of declaring a kan, including the extra dora indicator and a spare tile.
So, here you are. Your hand is getting close to being complete. The first question to ask yourself is: will this be a valid hand to go out on? The game provides a LONG list of valid hands that you can go out with, but I’ll try to simplify it as much as possible here with some questions for your hand:
Lastly, do you qualify for any of the more complicated hands that don’t require melds? There are two important ones: Seven Pairs and Thirteen Orphans. Seven Pairs is not all that difficult to make. It’s literally what it says: you have six pairs and a loner in your hand and the extra tile you draw makes the seventh pair. Thirteen Orphans is a hand that has one of each honor tile, and the one and the nine of each of the three suits. Pretty tough to make.
In all likelihood, you’ll probably have a hand with some runs, some trips, and a pair, or at least close to that, and if you haven’t declared pon, chi, or kan, then you can go out simply on that once you complete all the melds.
So, first is the idea of «riichi». If you’re in a situation where you need one more tile to win and you’re still concealed, press Square and you can declare riichi. You will then (in a flashy cutscene), lay down a 1000-point stick, basically betting 1000 points that you can complete your hand. My advice is to tap Square every so often as you get late in your hand to see if you can declare, just in case you missed it yourself. Once you actually declare, the music will kick into high gear you will not be able to change your hand any more, and are just waiting on draws for the tile (or tiles) you need to come in. If you go out on that hand, then you’ll get extra for having declared riichi.
One thing to note is that the game gives you a helpful guide on what you’ll need to go out if you declare in the upper right corner. You’ll see valid tiles and the number of which are still unknown as to whether they’re in play or not. For instance, seeing a five of bamboo with a «3» next to it means that you’ll need a five of bamboo to win, and three of them are still unaccounted for by you. They could be in the draw wall. They could be in someone else’s hand. They could be in the dead wall for all you know. All you know is that they aren’t in your hand or discarded. This may go without saying, but always go for the highest possible amount of tiles that could work for you, because in some cases you’ll have options on which tile to discard to declare riichi.
With all that out of the way, we can finally talk about actually going out. There are two ways to go out: «ron» and «tsumo».
«Ron» is stealing someone else’s tile to complete your hand. Whereas with normal stealing you have to steal from your left, in the case of ron, you can steal from anyone. You’ll use their tile to complete your hand and all the points you win will be taken directly from them.
«Tsumo» is getting a winning tile by drawing it. You’ll complete your hand and the points you win will be taken equally from your opponents.
Once you go out, the round is over and your score will be tallied based on your hand. I don’t plan on putting all the hands in this guide: it’s just too much. Use my tips above to make your best hand possible early on in your mahjong career, and once you get more comfortable, then you can start playing around with getting more interesting and higher scoring hands.
Once a hand is completed and tallied, the next hand will begin. The seat winds will rotate counter-clockwise, making the person who ends up as East the new dealer. This will continue until all four players have been the dealer, after which a quarter of the game will be over and the prevailing wind will change.
In the case of playing Mahjong in a Yakuza game, playing a quarter game will see the game over after a full round with East as the prevailing wind. If you play a half game, the game will go through all of East and then a round of South as the prevailing wind, and then it will be over.
There are two circumstances where the winds do not rotate. If a draw occurs, the winds do not rotate. Also, if the dealer (at East) wins, the winds do not rotate. This causes an extra hand to happen with the same winds until someone who is not the dealer wins.
Once all the allotted rounds are completed, the game ends. The final scores are shown, and the «uma» bonuses are applied. Depending on what place you’re in, you’ll have points either added to or subtracted from your total. You can ask the guy at the counter what the bonus point distribution is, but actually, through some programming oversight, the game lies. Here is the «true» uma that I determined by actually watching the game. Also thanks to barticle for maing me savvy that they were wrong.
Place | Easy | Medium | Hard | Ranking |
---|---|---|---|---|
1st | +10,000 | +20,000 | +30,000 | +75,000 |
2nd | +5,000 | +10,000 | +10,000 | |
3rd | -5,000 | -10,000 | -10,000 | -25,000 |
4th | -10,000 | -20,000 | -30,000 | -65,000 |
Your final score is then converted into yen, and either given to you or taken away from you (yes, you can lose more yen). On an Easy Table, that’s one yen per point. On the Medium Table, that’s 10 yen per point. On the Hard Table, it’s 100 yen per point.
And here I’ve made a quick list to go through while you play of hints to keep in mind:
What I’ve put up here isn’t exhausive, by any means. Here are some other resources:
A video guide that I found very helpful initially, by HanaYoriUta of Revolutionary Productions. Check it out to the right:
The GameFAQs user barticle’s guide to mahjong as specific to the Yakuza series: http://yakuza.wikia.com/wiki/Barticle’s_Introduction_to_Japanese_Mahjong
Another way to enjoy mahjong in this game is to play the ranked matches. You start at Rank 28 and will be tasked with beating a series of opponents and climbing your way up through the ranks. Request «Ranking Match» from the proprietor and pay a 50,000 yen buy-in. It’s a one-time pay, and every game is free after that. You’ll enter matches with a skill group. You’ll play a Half Game with Red Dora, and will play against the two people ranked above you and the one ranked below. If you get in first place, you’ll advance two ranks. If you get second, you’ll advance one. If you get fourth, you’ll drop a rank.
Since there’s only the one buy in, you don’t have to worry about bailing if you’re having a bad game. Just press the Touch Pad and select Quit and you can ditch the match at no penalty.
Here are the rewards you can get at specific ranks:
Rank | Reward | Type |
---|---|---|
25 | Gentleman’s Umbrella | Weapon |
20 | Calming Towel | |
15 | Tourmaline Bracelet | Accessory |
10 | Elder’s Belly Warmer | Gear |
5 | Hyper Stun Gun | Weapon |
3 | Head Honcho Scarf | Accessory |
1 | Magnetic Necklace | Accessory |
Not the best of items, and easily earned through other means, so don’t feel like these ranked matches are worth it to go the distance to 100%. It’s just a little extra fun you can have if you enjoy mahjong.
Lastly, let’s tackle each of the completion metrics one by one:
CyricZ started writing to get all the thoughts in his head about video games onto paper and it got out of hand.
If you’re looking for other guides by him, you can search the Yakuza series or the LEGO series on GameFAQs.
Как играть в маджонг yakuza
Здесь вы найдете:
● Получение желаемых достижений в листе завершения, необходимые для 100%
● Комбинации, собранные как мной, так и ботами
● Некоторые советы
П.с играла на английской версии игры, ибо боялась за кривой русский перевод
✯ Выйти 10 раз
Имеется в виду закончить партию с победой при помощи Ron или Tsumo
✯ Выйти с Mangan 5 раз
✯ Выйти с Haneman 1 раз
Собрать в партии Манган (4-5 Хан) или ханеман (6-7 Хан) и победить
✯ Выйти с Riichi Ippatsu.
Для меня было самое сложное, будет разобрано ниже
✯ Выйти с Full Straight
Победить с одной мастью
✯ Заработай 10 млн
По ходу получения остальных выбьете
Цель игры собрать выигрышную руку и набрать больше всего очков, они оцениваются в Ханы. Для победы достаточно и одного хана, для Мангана и Ханемана нужно 4 и больше. Позже будет разобрано.
Во избежание не состыковок буду писать на английском
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Для победы надо собрать 4 триплета Chi или Pon + 1 Pair.
kan бывает три вида. Открытый kan — когда на руке есть три одинаковые костяшки и ты воруешь четвёртую, это открывает руку и riichi невозможен. Дополненный kan — то же самое, только теперь дополняется тройка, которая не на руке, а уже была предварительно открыта через pon. И лишь третий, закрытый kan позволяет держать руку закрытой и вызывать riichi, ведь он без кражи, а чисто «со своих». Кстати, если в самом начале игры на раздаче в руке оказалось 4 одинаковые костяшки, то кнопку kan, как и кнопку riichi, также нужно вызывать вручную.
Начав играть вы столкнетесь с разными фразами справа. chow pung, kong и ron = это режим воровства. Воровать или нет, конечно же, ваше дело.
Плюсы = можно быстрее собрать все триплеты
Минусы = нельзя вызвать кнопку «Риичи». И соответственно риичи импацу будет для Вас закрыт.
Все такие фишки переходят в отдельную зону справа и будут видны всем. Режим воровства на разных англоязычных сайтах еще называется «позвонить в колокольчик», поэтому не удивляйтесь, если иногда буду использовать иное значение.
✿ Chow и Pung = Отбирание фишки соседа, сразу после того как он сбросил. Для сбора трех фишек подряд либо трех одинаковых.
✿ Kong = Также отбираем, но уже при наличие 3 одинаковых можно украсть еще одну. При создание конга открывается вторая фишка Доры в центре. При этом ваша рука остается скрытой.
✿Ron = Отбор последней недостающей тебе фишки у соседа.
✿Tsumo = Не относится к воровству ибо она пришла к вам сама, но за вами остается выбор нажать ли ее или собрать иной вариант
✿Riichi = Объявляете когда до победы остается одна фишка, игра продолжается без Вас. Единственная Скрытая кнопка, никто не предложит ее нажать. Потому не стесняйся жмякать ЛКМ или Х, если играете на геймпаде для вызова. Тут возможно все исходы. К вам может прийти плитка из колоды и вы выиграете крикнув Tsumo, или же вы стащите фишку у соперника, победив с помощью Ron. Не исключено также, что раунд закончится ничьей, либо же победит кто-то еще.
При нажатие на риичи, у вас будет выбор (или нет, в зависимости от комбинации) какую фишку сбросить. Циферки сверху показывают какое кол-во такой фишки еще осталось в колоде. Чем больше цифра тем лучше, ибо больше шансов, что ее кто-то выкинет или же что она придет вам.
Также, при выборе риичи над вашим именем появится полоска с точкой, по ней можно ориентироваться есть ли у кого-то еще Риичи. Да бы не подбросить нужную фишку врагу.
Суть в том, чтобы после объявления Риичи за один круг выкидывания фишек выиграть. Таким образом, объявив ричи у вас есть игрок слева, перед вами и игрок справа. Ну и ваш ход. За это время вы должны лишь украсть РОНОМ либо получить из колоды ТСУМО. Тут только удача. Рекомендую правда только звонить в Риичи ближе к концу, и выбирать фишки с наибольшим числом копий сверху. Однажды, вам повезет!
Конечно, по началу будет очень сложно играть. Если придумали вариант то есть смысл наблюдать за противниками, какие фишки они выбрасывают. Тогда +/- можете предугадать что они собирают. Особенно обидно когда выкидываешь, а у тебя воруют и получаешь РОН прямо в лицо, за это еще большой штраф выпадает. Безопасно выбрасывать то, что выбросили они, значит подобные им явно не нужны, за исключением, пожалуй, последней их фишки, которая поворачивается боком при возникновение Риичи. Ниже будет немного моих ручек, которые получалось собрать, а также ручки из правил внутри самой игры.
Иногда получается собрать 1-2-3 из каждой масти, за это дают аш 2 хана. Еще очень прикольная но рандомная фишка, когда ты на последнем кругу отбираешь плитку и выиграешь на Роном, за нее также дают 1 хан.